Bab Zuweila marked the southern edge of Fatimid Cairo when Badr al-Jamali built it in 1092. As the city expanded, streets grew around it. People, goods and processions passed beneath its arch, and in 1517 it became the setting for the execution of Tuman Bay, the last Mamluk sultan of Egypt.
In the fifteenth century, the minarets of al-Muayyad Shaykh’s mosque were built on its towers, joining a defensive gateway to a place of worship. At street level, thick stonework and the deep entrance reveal a threshold that survived long after Cairo outgrew its boundary.
The best route depends on your starting point. Navigate to Bab Zuweila, Darb al-Ahmar, Cairo; for Historic Cairo sites, expect to walk the final part through narrow streets.
A walk through the heart of Fatimid Cairo, from its northern gate to its southern one: mosques, sabils, houses and markets along a single street. Best from late afternoon into sunset, and special on Ramadan nights.